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"name": "Wave height, peak period, and orbital velocity for the California continental shelf",
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"value": "10.5066/F7125QNQ",
"url": "https://doi.org/10.5066/F7125QNQ"
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"datePublished": "2014",
"dateModified": "2015-05-12",
"abstract": "Ecologists have long recognized that the structure and function of benthic marine ecosystems are closely linked to oceanographic processes. Quantifying the natural spatial and temporal variability of disturbances affecting benthic marine ecosystems is thus critical for planning and management of areas, such as marine protected areas, and for permitting offshore activities such as trawling, dredging, and the placement of sea-floor engineering structures (cables and pipelines, for example).\nThe oceanographic processes that disturb the continental shelf include the actions of surface waves, internal waves, and currents (tidal, density, wave-driven, wind-driven, and geostrophic). Because the North Pacific Ocean can generate extremely large surface waves that yield relatively high near-bed wave orbital velocities, wave-generated near-bed currents are often considered to be the dominant mechanism for seabed disturbances along the California coast (Sherwood and others, 1994; Storlazzi and Jaffe, 2002; Storlazzi and others, 2003).\nIn this study, bathymetric data compiled as part of the California Seafloor Mapping Program Project and within the 3-NM limit were supplemented with deeper water bathymetric data (NOAA,\u00a0http://maps.ngdc.noaa.gov/, last downloaded April 2013) and used to populate numerical wave grids for simulation of wave growth and propagation across the continental shelf bordering the California coast. Wave computations were done with the widely used and accepted numerical model SWAN (Ris, 1997; Booij and others, 1999; Ris and others, 1999). SWAN is a third-generation spectral model that simulates wind-wave growth, propagation, refraction, dissipation, and depth-induced breaking.",
"description": "USGS Data Website; Pamphlet: v, 37 p.",
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"name": "U.S. Geological Survey"
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"author": [
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"name": "Erikson, Li H. lerikson@usgs.gov",
"givenName": "Li H.",
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"email": "lerikson@usgs.gov",
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"name": "Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center",
"url": "https://www.usgs.gov/centers/pacific-coastal-and-marine-science-center"
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},
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"@type": "Person",
"name": "Golden, Nadine E. ngolden@usgs.gov",
"givenName": "Nadine E.",
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"name": "Storlazzi, Curt D. cstorlazzi@usgs.gov",
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